MET MADNESS

BY MOLLY MCMAHON

This week saw the most notable Monday of all 52 in a year, The first Monday in May; better known to most as the annual date of the always highly anticipated Met Gala. Following a short hiatus during 2020, the event was originally rescheduled to September 2021, before finally being reinstated to its rightful position at the First Monday in May last year. With no more confusion, the Met was back in full swing. 

WHAT IS THE MET?

For those who may not be familiar with the Met Gala (Also known as the Met Ball or formally, the Costume Institute Gala or Costume Institute Benefit) it is an annual fundraising gala held for the benefit of the Metropolitan Museums of Art’s Costume Institute in New York City. 

The Costume Institute is an organisation within the Metropolitan Museum with a collection of over 33,000 pieces of clothing, jewellery and accessories that document fashion from the 1400s until now.

Its prestige and glamour has it regarded notably as ‘fashion's biggest night’, with invitations highly sought after and hard to come by. Marking the opening of the Costume Institute’s annual fashion exhibit, attendees are given a theme to reflect on, with 2023’s Gala being “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty”, honouring the artistic contributions of the late German designer in the world of fashion. 

The Met Gala was established in 1946 by fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert ( below, left ), with the first event being held in 1948. Back then, tickets cost 50 dollars each ( equivalent to around $626 USD today) with the guest list being arguably more exclusive, being composed mostly of New York’s high society.

It was in 1972 when Diana Vreeland (above, right) became a consultant, that the Gala began to evolve into what we know it to be today. During her years, the Gala began being held exclusively at the Met, annual themes were introduced, and Vreeland began inviting high-profile celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor, Andy Warhol, Bianca Jagger, Elton John and Cher. 

These days though, there simply is no Met Gala without Anna Wintour (pictured below). Wintour has been chair or co-chair of the event every year since 1995 (with the exception of 1996). It was Anna Wintour who took the event to an even higher level by growing her list of attendees to include celebrities globally from the worlds of fashion, entertainment, business, sports and politics. They would, with Wintour, eventually grace the pages of Vogue, where Wintour stands as the longest-serving Editor in Chief of the magazine, having taken over American Vogue in 1988. 

In an industry ever-changing this is no small feat. Her reportedly demanding personality had earned her the nickname “Nuclear Wintour”, yet she never fails to impress. She is one of a kind and when it comes to the Met Gala, holds all the power. Some of her rules surrounding the event had been deemed brutal, but they have helped to keep the allure alive. At the end of the day, Wintour gets the final say on everything. From the guest list, to designers, even down to the outfits the guests wear. Everything must be approved by her. Most interesting of all perhaps being the seating plans. Organised, re-organised, then finalised by Wintour. With designers and brands paying for the tickets (which in 2023 cost a whopping 50,000 USD), you can expect the groups to be seated together, while the particular order is always determined by Wintour. Unless you’re at the event yourself, we never really know who’s sat next to who. But the stories that come out after are always surprising. 

KARL, A BRIEF TIMELINE

“Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty” might seem a bit broad and vague to those unfamiliar with his work but to those who followed his life and career, it is exciting with its endless opportunities. Lagerfeld was born on 10 September 1933 in Hamburg. Showing great interest in visual arts from a young age, Lagerfeld moved to Paris when he was 14. Here, he would complete his education at Lycée Montaigne, where he would learn to sketch. A skill that he favoured. Friends and collaborators would tell you that paper was Karl’s favorite material. 

Make it stand out

He achieved early success in a career that would span seven decades; he won the 1954 International Wool Secretariat competition. This is where he would meet and befriend a 19-year-old Yves Saint Laurent (who won the cocktail dress category). Following this, Lagerfeld would immediately be hired as a junior assistant and then apprentice at Balmain, the haute couture house. This was followed by a stint as a designer for Jean Patou in 1958. Upon departing in 1962 he also left haute couture, tired of creating formal clothing for the rich. 

This is when he began his freelance career, something that would be considered bold. He was a man who saw things before they happened and at this moment knew that the fashion landscape was changing or perhaps he was pioneering it.

In 1964 he would begin working with Chloé where the fashion house’s founder, Gaby Again encouraged him to take a freer approach and escape from his formal couture training. By the early 1970s, his Work for Chloé would help the brand transcend into an international powerhouse, solidifying him as one of the most prominent designers in the world. 

It was in 1965 that Lagerfeld would add Fendi, the Rome-based fashion house to his client list. He was hired to modernise their fur line. Thus beginning what would be his longest-standing tenure, spanning over six decades until his death. This is also arguably where his bold choices would begin to lead to controversies. Consider the 1993 show where he put an adult entertainment star and strippers in lacy swimwear, causing Anna Wintour to walk out.  

When most people think of Karl Lagerfeld, however, they think of Chanel. Lagerfeld was asked to design for Chanel in 1982, a decade after the passing of Gabrielle Chanel herself. At the time the brand was considered “near-dead” having struggled without its founder. Having spent so much of his career criticising haute couture, the news of his appointment was met with whispers about whether or not he was up to the task. Proving them wrong he managed to enliven the brand without disturbing the Chanel spirit. From then on he would also be the only designer to show two couture collections each year with Fendi and Chanel. His time with Chanel is arguably what he is best known for. Through his genius, the now cult Chanel items came to life. The rise of interlocking C’s, two-toned shoes, pearls and bouclé tweeds. Lagerfeld created the blueprint for revitalising languishing fashion houses. 

In 1984 (the same year he would launch his namesake label) Lagerfeld spoke with American Vogue stating “Tradition is something that you have to handle carefully because it can kill you. Respect was never creative.” A sentiment worth keeping in mind as we look at the 2023 Met Gala looks and how these creatives chose to honour the late designer. 

Lagerfeld left us with the memories of tweed, dreams of Chanel brides, bouquets of Camélia’s and his beautiful cat, Choupette. His iconic look of fingerless gloves (often leather), a tie and a ponytail, all topped off with sunglasses. The opportunities for this year's carpet were endless.

SO WHO NAILED THE BRIEF?

Some of my personal favourites were Anne Hathaway in Versace by Donatella. A gown that is so brilliantly a Versace, while encapsulating motifs of camélia, pearls and gold chain, with white tweed reminiscent of a Chanel bride. Jared Leto’s Choupette costume. Elle Fanning’s beautifully sentimental Vivienne Westwood look, where she drew inspiration from her first time working with Lagerfeld. The little black jacket we’ve all come to know so well. The daisy crown he placed on her head. The look was full of class with a little edge. A look that Fanning, Westwood and Lagerfeld all shared. Thom Browne’s Met class of 2023 looked phenomenal alone and even better together. 

The Karl Lagerfeld cosplay, particularly shown through hair and glasses was perfectly tongue in cheek and I believe would have humoured the man himself. I was, however, disappointed to not see more archival pieces from Fendi and Chloé. Or to see more men dressed in his Karl Lagerfeld label. Lagerfeld was known for saying that he was four people. One when he was with Chanel, one with Fendi, one with Chloé and of course one with Karl Lagerfeld. It would have been nice to see more representation of the latter three. 

Most refreshing of all, was how on theme everyone seemed to stay. Though not surprising, Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy isn’t just the iconic silhouettes he left behind but also about the direction in which he led fashion.